Welcome back to The Code of Style and this article about the quirky creative spirit of Occitanie in France by our contributing columnist, Renata Huster.
Spending time in Occitanie is the scent of Wood Violets in spring, a summer picnic by the river Aveyron, the smell of chestnuts roasting in Autumn, and the taste of a piping hot cassoulet in winter washed down with a spice-scented Gaillic wine with a rich garnet hue.
Occitanie is one of 13 French Metropolitan regions and is located in the southwestern quarter of France, separated from Spain by the northern slope of the Pyrenees and from the coasts overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.
It is organic farmland yielding good quality produce and grain, and 23,000 hectares of vines. Its capital is Toulouse.
Read on to find out more about the quirky creative spirit of Occitanie.
Toulouse
Downtown Toulouse is gritty, gutsy with a palpable atmosphere. Perceived as the ‘pink city because of its rosé-colored bricks.
Take a stroll to the Grand Central Square or Place de Capitole, overlooked by the town hall and the opera house, an immense, sun-scorched colored masterpiece of architecture and, marvel at the elaborate frescoes that dominate the walls and ceilings of the Salle des Illustres.
Puech Mignon ( Sweet Hill )
When I travel to the Occitanie region, I sometimes stay in a tiny hamlet of Puech Mignon which translates to Sweet Hill.
It does, indeed, rest snuggly at the bottom of a hill and, the community is extremely sweet and kind. Puech Mignon consists of 16 stone houses, huddled randomly around one another, on lush verdant land.
Metal sculptor Bernard Mages lives in this winsome little hamlet. His work is well-known and in high demand.
On entering Puech Mignon, sculptures of all shapes and sizes welcome you, Like one big open-air gallery! Whilst paying homage to their master.
Puech Mignon rests on the river Aveyron. The perfect spot for a picnic, fishing, spending a lazy, daydreamy afternoon sitting by the calm of the river, or reading a good book!
Bernard’s huge atmospheric workroom and gallery used to be an enormous old barn. Beautiful in character. It is here that he houses his international award-winning pieces.
His light and airy creations are made entirely by hand and a bonus of visiting his workshop is that Bernard encourages you to sculpt your very own work of art!
I took the opportunity to sculpt a rather odd-looking butterfly and was more than honored when Bernard placed it in his garden.
You are welcome to visit Bernard’s showroom at Puech Mignon, 82250, Laquepie, or order a piece of interior or exterior sculpture at mages@wanadoo.fr
Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val
Just a short drive from Puech Mignon is the impressively picturesque village of Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val. It is renowned far and wide for its free-spirited Bohemian soul, flea and farmer market, open-air concerts, and artisan life.
You will find it always jam-packed at the Sunday farmer’s market; Bric-a-Brac, vintage clothes, bits and bobs, colorful knitted shawls, Geraniums, Hydrangeas, and herb pots, in fact, all sorts of unusual botanical curiosities abound!
Plus, good, fresh, wholesome produce, excellent local wines, and old second-hand books spill out onto the main square and into the lanes, while a jazz musician entertains as you browse!
The absolute best restaurant in the village, in my opinion, (and there are numerous good ones) is Le Festin de Babette, on the bank of the Aveyron, facing St Antonin.
It’s named after Isak Dinesen’s acclaimed short story ‘Babette’s Feast.’ It has a fireplace, just the spot for those cold winter days, and a hearty lunch with a good bottle of red!
There is also a summer terrace. The perfect place to watch the sun go down whilst sipping an apéro.
Be daring and try something uniquely different, like a little hazelnut sauce on your veal fillet or a dab of dandelion jam on the side of your dessert. Local wines are proudly supported here! And the service is impeccable and friendly.
The simple pleasures to be had in this region make the Occitanie experience so fulfilling! Like the camaraderie of a bunch of friends with wicker baskets in hand, walking off into the forest to pick mushrooms, with every chance of spotting a pig, under an old oak tree, sniffing out truffles.
Najac
Najac is another medieval village that is close by and can’t be missed! Dominated by an impregnable fortress overlooking the Aveyron gorge; with panoramic views of a lush and savage landscape, quirky higgledy-piggledy, half-timbered houses stacked against one another, form a rugged rocky neckline to the fortress.
Najac was militarily significant in its brutal and bloody past. It was repeatedly attacked by the Kings of France and England. Take the torchlight tour during summer and hear ancient walls regale violent tales of a turbulent time from a bygone age.
Or enjoy the Outdoor Film Festival held at the end of July.
The taste fair is held on the 1st of April. Sample a delicious, scrumptious local dish and a bottle of light sparkling wine.
Cordes-sur-Ciel
Cordes-sur-Ciel or ‘Strings-on-Sky’ is a medieval village renowned for its rich Gothic history. Bordered by oaks and chestnut trees. This village is a real hub of artisan life and culture.
Craftsmen, sculptors, painters, and potters happily mingle with the hordes that visit each year.
Visit the sweetly eccentric museum of Sugar, Chocolate, and Art, filled with creative pieces by Yves Thuries, made from the foundation of sugar and chocolate. Bonus chocolate tastings at the end of the tour go down well with the kids!
Or immerse yourself in a realm of dreams by visiting the Paradise Garden! Enclosures of fragrant scent lure its guests into an ambiance of sensory delight! Exotic plants and art collide! The result is a world within a world of luscious intimate beauty!
Gasques Brunel
Directly opposite Gasques, a once-powerful little bastide, stands Brunel, an imposing fortress that visually dominates the surrounding landscape. Complete with its own set of dungeons, not for the faint of heart! (A decapitated head and finger were recently found in a shallow grave, near the tower, dating back to medieval times!).
The owners Phil and Anna Brown have painstakingly restored the fortress over many years, back to its former glory except for a few modern perks; like a domed glass roof, a stately tower with sweeping views over endless green pasture!
Horses gently neigh in distant paddocks and a ceaseless calm lingers over the peaceful landscape. Time for a beer! Beer?!!! Yes, beer! In fitting with the quirky creative spirit of Occitanie, Phil and Anna have opened a brewery in one of their dungeons! Beer tastings are held under the domed glass roof, in the immense inner courtyard of the fortress, which has its own small-scale Hanging Tower of Babylon walled garden!
The brewery is a cracking success! Visit the fortress at 82400 Gasques, the brewery is opened all day Friday from 9 am to 7 pm, or order a brew at admin@aperogirl.com
The Occitanie experience is like no other in France! Its whimsical, quirky, and creative spirit is truly the land of artisans and freethinkers!
I hope you enjoyed this article about the quirky creative spirit of Occitanie by our Contributing Columnist, Renata Huster, and don’t forget to check out some of the other travel posts on the Code of Style.
I’m Julia, the Senior Managing Editor and I can’t wait to share some more articles with you again soon! In the meantime you can find more inspiration on my blog “The Velvet Runway” and doors are now open for the “Style, Confidence & Success Club”, a membership site for women who are ready to take (back) control of their lives, (re)discover their style, feel empowered and live the life of their dreams. You can find out more here.
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Renata Huster is a freelance writer and author. As a lover of adventure, she has traveled extensively throughout the world, and she is an avid reader and lover of art.
